Thankfully the recent expansion from 24 to 40 seats hasn't detracted from the intimacy and quaintness of this uptown Italian bistro and pizzeria. It still has classy yet welcoming décor of deep cranberry and white walls, uncomplicated pine tables and cushioned chairs stained dark to heighten a bistro-like feeling, and not to be overshadowed, floor-length draperies well-matched to the magenta / wine tones. The soft sound of jazz heard from the road is alone enough to make you want to take a peak in, and then you're hooked.
You're warmly welcomed by Italian owner Simone, who is practically always on hand. His nearnessy remains, yet more in the nature of consultant, available to make suggestions, innately knowing when his attention is needed, and when not. He advises with regard to selections from the printed menu, or large blackboard. We've never been disappointed with his wine recommendations, each having been determined chosen by Simone so as to ensure appropriate pairing of food with wine, as well as affordability for middle-of-the-road patrons.
Menu Salads
The traditional culinary reckon for visiting Vieja Lira is its pizzas. However, the fish, seafood, pastas and zuppas run a very close second. And even if the temptation to order a traditional plato fuerte is too great to resist, and you're inclined to pass on the pizza, recommend to others in your party that pizza as one of the appetizers might satisfy the curiosity if not hidden yearning of all.
Drinks arrive practically as effortlessly as the crusty, soft yet dense bread, hand-cut to be drizzled with the herb infused olive oil or possibly some paste-like salsa de chile de arbol.
The pizza is one compassionate size, with crust as thin as I've ever chomped, de facto worthy of winning an award. It borders on the thickness of a tortilla or possibly tlayuda. For this cena our eight-slicer had cheese, tomato and the usual herbs and spices, each quarter with a salutary topping of one of artichoke, black olive, mushroom and pepperoni. While it was the first appetizer to arrive, and we knew there were more entradas to follow, the four diners in our party were drawn to devour it all, without even a single, obligatory "no, you take the last piece."
Our appetizers were rounded out with a bowl of ten or so medium-sized garlic shrimp, skewered, and an order of bruschetta of chicken liver paté, dare I say good enough to remind me of my grandmothers' method from The Old Country. Watch out asiento, schmaltz is manufacture inroads into Oaxaca.
My wife's seafood bouillabaisse consisted of a medley of seafood and fish, juices appropriately spiced with a blend of fresh local herbs including your appropriate Italian selections, served in an oversized bowl. I prolonged with the crustacean theme, indulging in a hefty serving of fettuccini with seafood including squid, octopus, shrimp, scallop and local langostina in their shell. One of our guests ordered seared tuna over a bed of mixed exotic greens. She'd requested "rare, much less than medium," I piped in "almost still swimming," yet the plate arrived disappointingly overcooked, bordering on well. Without request or consulation the dish was removed, and in short order another serving, properly grilled, arrived with appropriate apology. The final entrée was one of the daily specials, rabbit with selection of penne or linguini, in a tangy tomato sauce.
Two bottles of Italian merlot having been retired, the bistro by now practically empty, we were nevertheless still inclined to continue with just a bit more catching up with good friends. A combine of brandies and herbal teas, a tiramisu, and a coconut ice cream served in its half shell, most agreeably put the finishing touches on an evening of full, contentment.
Vieja Lira
Trattoria & Pizzeria
Pino Suárez 100
Centro, Oaxaca
Hours: 1 - 11 p.m., complete Tuesday
Tel: 516 - 1122
Vieja Lira Trattoria & Pizzeria - Oaxaca cafeteria divulge
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